This Menu Is 125 Years Old. What Are You Ordering?
A porterhouse for seventy cents? Yes, please
The New York Public Library's online menu collection is a perfect rabbit hole for restaurant lovers to fall down. Got a few hours? It’s a fascinating and exhaustive record of dining out over nearly two centuries.
The Buttolph Collection, as it’s also known, consists of 45,000 menus, more than 17,000 of which have been digitized, the oldest dating to 1843. It’s named for Miss Frank E. Buttolph, an eccentric menu buff (and archivist) who wrote to restaurants to request copies of their menus and meticulously cataloged every one. She graciously donated her life’s work to the NYPL.
That 1843 menu? It was from the luxurious Astor House, and it was for a dining area reserved for “ladies.” The specials included clam soup, stewed mutton with turnips, and calf’s head with brain sauce. Breakfast started at 5:30 AM.
Menus are more than lists of foods and beverages. They’re a very specific kind of literature. They’re functional guides, yes, but every menu also tells a story about the time and place it existed. As a whole, the NYPL’s menu collection — which includes examples from Boston and Chicago — tells a specific culinary history: the birth and flourishing of American restaurants.
The ones that stand out include those from Delmonico’s, the father of American restaurants. There was nothing like it when it opened its doors in 1837. Before Delmonico’s, restaurants were found in hotels, seating was communal, and you ate what was served. Delmonico’s was inspired by European styles: it gave guests their own tables and took their orders. Its menus were massive and written in French, the language of the gourmand.
Delmonico’s wasn’t just the most popular restaurant in New York; it was the most famous restaurant in the country. For decades. And it inspired countless imitators; New York City has been crazy for restaurants ever since.
And then, while perusing, I found a menu for Smith & McNeil’s, which I then learned was the busiest restaurant-slash-dining hall in 19th-century New York. It was a massive operation that sat across from Washington Market, the city's trade center, in Lower Manhattan, where it served the masses until the 1920s. Founded in the late 1840s, Smith & McNeil reached its peak in the 1890s, reportedly serving 10,000 people a day. The turnover must have been madness: the floor seated 1,000 diners at a time. This wasn’t Delmonico’s; the menus were in plain English, and the goal was fast, hot, honest food. It’s a monster of a menu, and I’ve pored over it, imagining myself a Gilded Age gentleman ordering dinner amongst the rabble.
Here’s the menu, which is also reprinted below for those of you without reading glasses. It is exhaustive but filled with foods modern diners would definitely find palatable, if not delicious. Who doesn’t love corned beef hash and eggs?
The prices listed are pennies; adjusted for inflation, one dollar at the turn of the century is worth about $39 today. So a porterhouse steak that cost seventy cents would cost about $27 now. Reasonable!
Join me. What are you ordering? Little clam fritters? Lamb chops? Pumpkin pie? Sound off in the comments.
DINNER
WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 31, 1900
TO-DAY’S EXTRAS
Stewed Tripe with Onions $.15 · Boiled Turkey, Oyster Sauce $.30 · Boiled Beef, Horseradish Sauce $.15 · Roast Pork, Apple Sauce $.15 · Beef a la Mode $.15 · Chili Con Carne, Mexican Style $.15 · Beefsteak Pie $.15 · Boston Pot Roast $.25 · Frankfurter Sausages and Sauerkraut $.20 · Baked Chicken Pie $.20 · Ragout de Boeuf $.15 · Chicken Fricassee $.25 · Baked Ham, Champagne Sauce $.25 · Oyster Pie $.15 · Pork and Beans $.15 · Chicken Patty $.20 · Oyster Patty $.15
ROASTS Beef $.15 · Veal $.15 · Beef, Loin $.25 · Lamb $.15 · Beef Tenderloin $.25 · Pork $.15
SOUPS Green Turtle $.30 · Beef $.10 · Clam $.15 · Chicken $.15 · Vegetable $.10 · Mutton Barley $.10 · Ox-tail $.15 · Tomato $.10 · Pea $.10 · Clam Broth $.10 · Bean $.10
EGGS Sardines $.15 · Baked Halibut $.15
TO ORDER — FRIED OR BROILED Bluefish $.25 · Fish Cakes $.25 · Codfish $.25 · Salmon Steak $.30 · Halibut Steak $.25 · Picked-up Codfish $.25 · Salt Mackerel $.25 · Eels $.25 · Shad Fried or Broiled $.25 · Fried Smelts $.25 · Fresh Mackerel $.25 · Finnan Haddie $.25
BOILED Smoked Ham $.15 · Mutton, Plain $.15 · Corned Beef $.15 · Smoked Beef Tongue $.25 · Mutton, Caper Sauce $.20 · Corned Beef Hash $.15
POULTRY WITH APPLE SAUCE OR CRANBERRY SAUCE Roast Spring Chicken $.35 · Chicken Fricassee $.25 · Chicken, Broiled on Toast $.50 · Roast Spring Duck $.35 · Roast Turkey $.30 · Chicken, Fried, Vienna Style $.50
STEAKS AND CHOPS TO ORDER Porterhouse Steak $.70 · Bone Sirloin Steak $.50 · Top Sirloin Steak $.30 · Porterhouse Steak, Tomato Sauce $.75 · Sirloin Steak with Fried Potatoes $.25 · Porterhouse Steak with Mushrooms $.80 · Sirloin Steak, Tomato Sauce $.30 · Porterhouse Steak for Two $1.00 · with Tomato Sauce $1.05 · Rump Steak $.25 · Porterhouse Steak for Two with Mushrooms $1.15 · Rump Steak, Tomato Sauce $.30 · Tenderloin Steak $.40 · Pork Chops $.25 · Hamburger Steak $.25 · Tenderloin Steak, Tomato Sauce $.45 · Veal Cutlet, Plain or Breaded $.25 · Tenderloin Steak with Mushrooms $.50 · Ham Hash Browned $.15 · Corned Beef Hash, Browned $.15 · Country Sausages $.25 · Corned Beef Hash with One Poached Egg $.20 · English Mutton Chops, Single $.25 · Broiled or Fried Ham $.25 · English Mutton Chops, Brace $.40 · Pork Tenderloin $.25 · Rib of Veal, Single $.15 · Brace $.25 · Lamb Chops $.25 · Country Sausage $.25 · Broiled Pig’s Feet $.25 · Liver and Bacon $.25
EGGS Two Fried or Boiled $.15 · Three Poached Plain $.20 · Bacon and Eggs to Order $.25 · Three Fried or Boiled $.20 · Two Poached on Toast $.20 · Omelet, Ham or Oyster $.25 · Two Scrambled $.15 · Three Poached on Toast $.25 · Omelet, Plain $.20 · Three Scrambled $.20 · Frizzled Beef and Eggs $.25 · Omelet, Parsley $.25 · Two Poached Plain $.15 · Ham and Eggs to Order $.25 · Omelet, Rum $.25
VEGETABLES Stewed Tomatoes $.10 · Cauliflower $.15 · Lettuce $.10 · Potatoes, Fried to Order $.10 · Stewed Corn $.10 · Sliced Onions $.10 · Potatoes, French Fried $.10 · Green Peas $.10 · Extra Cabbage $.05 · Potatoes, Fried Saratoga $.10 · Succotash $.10 · Green Peas $.10 · Potatoes, Mashed $.05 · Spinach $.10 · Celery $.10 · Potatoes, Lyonnaise $.10 · Boiled Onions $.10 · Boiled Sweet Potatoes $.05 · Fried Sweet Potatoes $.10
LOBSTERS Broiled, Half $.30 · Whole $.50 · Stewed, Half $.30 · Whole $.50 · Plain, Half $.25 · Whole $.50
LAMB’S TONGUE $.10 · TWO $.15
NOTICE
Please Pay Your Check at the Door You Leave
Overcoats, Hats Etc. May Be Checked at the Greenwich Street Entrance.
The Proprietor is Not Responsible for Articles Not Checked.
OYSTERS AND CLAMS Raw $.20 · Saddle Rocks, Raw $.25 · Little Neck Clams, Raw, Half Shell $.20 · Raw, One Dozen $.30 · Saddle Rocks, One Dozen $.40 · Little Neck Clam Stew $.20 · Stew $.20 · Saddle Rock Stew $.35 · Little Neck Clam Fry $.25 · Box Stew $.25 · Saddle Rock Fry $.35 · Little Neck Clams, Baked $.30 · Milk Stew $.25 · Saddle Rock Broil $.35 · Little Neck Clam Roast $.25 · Fry $.25 · Saddle Rock Broil, Milk Toast $.40 · Little Neck Clams, Steamed $.25 · Steamed $.25 · Saddle Rock Pan Roast $.35 · Little Neck Clam Fritters $.25 · Oyster Omelet $.25 · Saddle Rock Roast, Half Shell $.40 · Soft Clam Stew $.20 · Broil with Cream $.30 · Saddle Rock Fancy Roast $.45 · Soft Clam Fry $.25 · Broil on Toast $.25 · Saddle Rocks, Steamed $.40 · Soft Clam Fritters $.25 · Broil on Milk Toast $.35 · Saddle Rocks, Fricasseed $.40 · Soft Clam Broil $.25 · Pan Roast $.30 · Saddle Rock Broil, Cream $.35 · Soft Clam Roast $.25 · Roast on Half Shell $.30 · Soft Clams, Cow Bay, Fry with Bacon $.25 · Fancy Roast $.30 · Fricasseed Oysters $.30 · Soft Clams, Steamed $.25 · Scallops, Fried or Broiled $.30
STEWS Stewed Tripe, to Order $.20 · Beef $.15 · Veal $.15 · Stewed Tripe with Oysters $.25 · Lamb $.15 · Oyster $.20 · Irish Stew $.15 · Lamb with Green Peas $.20 · Stewed Mushrooms $.25
COLD MEATS WITH POTATO SALAD Roast Duck $.35 · Roast Lamb $.15 · Smoked Beef Tongue $.25 · Corned Beef $.15 · Roast Chicken $.35 · Roast Veal $.15 · Ham $.15 · Turkey $.30 · Roast Beef, Loin $.25
SALADS Chicken $.25 · Celery $.05 · Lobster $.30 · Potato $.05 · Lettuce $.10
PUDDINGS — Wine with Puddings, $.05 Extra Apple $.10 · Bread $.10 · Plum $.10 · Bromangelon Jelly $.05 · Tapioca $.10 · Rice $.10 · Cold Rice $.10 · Apple Tapioca $.10 · Baked Suet $.10 · Catskill $.10 · Bird’s Nest $.10 · Apple Dumpling, Boiled $.10 · Apple Dumpling, Baked $.10
PIES Mince $.10 · Pumpkin $.10 · Apple $.10 · Cocoanut $.10 · Lemon Meringue $.10 · Custard $.10
Tea, Coffee and Chocolate, per Cup $.05 · per Pot $.10 · with Pitcher of Cream $.06 Extra · Vienna Coffee, per Cup $.10 · Postum Cereal Coffee $.05
TOAST Dry $.10 · Buttered $.10 · Milk $.15 · Cream $.20
GRIDDLE CAKES WITH MAPLE SYRUP OR STRAINED HONEY Rice Cakes $.10 · Wheat Cakes $.10 · Indian Cakes $.10 · Buckwheat Cakes $.10
DAIRY DISHES Oatmeal and Milk $.10 · Oatmeal, Bowl of Cream $.20 · Cup Custard $.10 · Rice and Milk $.10 · Milk per Glass $.05 · Cream, per Glass $.10 · Crackers (all kinds) and Milk $.10 · Milk, per Bowl $.05 · Cream, per Bowl $.15 · Rice and Pitcher of Cream $.10 · Oatmeal, Pitcher of Cream $.10 · Rice and Bowl of Cream $.20 · Bread and Milk $.10
WELSH RAREBIT $.20 · GOLDEN BUCK $.25
FANCY CAKES Jumbles $.05 · Raisin Cake $.05 · German Pancake $.20 · Wine Cake $.05 · French Pancake $.15 · Sponge Cake $.05 · Chocolate Eclair $.05 · Banana Cake $.05 · Cream Cake $.05
BREAD French · Oatmeal · Entire Wheat · Vienna · Rye and Gluten · Home-made · English Muffins, each $.05 · Health Bread
FRUIT AND PRESERVES Oranges, each $.05 · Apples, each $.05 · Apple Sauce $.05 · Canned Peaches $.10 · Hot Baked Apples $.10 · Canned Pears $.10 · Stewed Prunes $.05 · Stewed Apples $.05
ICE CREAM Vanilla $.10 · Chocolate $.10 · Strawberry $.10 · Lemon $.10 · Neapolitan $.10 · French $.15
GOLDEN RUSSET CIDER $.25 PER BOTTLE.