Where Colin Ate: Bar Kabawa, TabeTomo, Ci Siamo, Fiore’s
Plus: the one restaurant our columnist won't be writing about
Colin Camac (aka @resyguynyc) is officially Blackbird’s “Strategic Sales Lead,” and unofficially is our resident insider’s insider. He is out, on the town seven nights a week, sniffing out the city’s best joints, skateboard in one hand, martini in the other.
We’ve got a lighter selection this week as I’m choosing not to write about one of the restaurants I went to. For this column, I always try to stay positive. The restaurant industry is hard enough without outside forces bringing it down. That being said, some experiences just bum you out, like said meal – the meal that will not be named! It happened at a classic restaurant that felt like they’d stopped trying. I hadn’t been in years, so I don’t know how long it has been this way, but it sucks to go spend your money in a place that just feels like they’re going through the motions.
Anyway, let’s focus on the stuff I did love last week …
Colin
TabeTomo
📍East Village
🍽️ Ramen
Winter is the time for ramen and being that I end up on St. Marks quite often, TabeTomo has become the go-to place for me. TabeTomo opened in late 2018 and has been a hit ever since. They recently recovered from a fire that had them closed for several months, so coming back in to support always feels good. Usually at off times you can walk right in, but on this night there was quite a bit of a wait, which is monitored using a self service pad on the wall where you write in your name and party size and the team calls your name as soon as there is space. While hardly a perfect system it does the job and seeing that I was the first of three solo diners on the list, I knew I had a reasonably good shot at eating pretty shortly. For me ramen is a solo activity. It’s fine with some friends, but in all honesty nobody else needs to watch you sipping and slurping all over the place. When Ichiran debuted in NYC a few years back with the personal ramen cubbies, I really “felt seen” in the best possible way. The other thing that is fairly unique about TabeTomo is that they specialize in tsukemen style ramen, or “dipping style,” which is my preferred ramen style. In tsukemen, the broth is usually quite a bit more intense and the noodles are thicker and served cold on the side. The idea is to take the noodles and dip them in the very intense broth until they are slicked with it and then slurp them up. It is absolutely delicious (and sometimes messy) and one of my favorite meals on a cold winter day. While you can find this style at most ramen shops in the city, I really enjoy it here.
Bar Kabawa
📍East Village
🍽️ Caribbean
Ko Bar was one of my favorite restaurants in NYC for the entirety of its existence. I was really bummed when it closed as it was always a place with a really thoughtful and playful menu that was constantly changing and thus keeping it interesting. In its place is the bar portion of Kabawa (full restaurant to open soon!), a new Caribbean restaurant from Momofuku, although something completely different than anything they’ve done before. With Kabawa, Chef Paul Carmichael returns to the kitchens of NYC after a successful run in Australia. I decided to bring my most rum obsessed friend to check out what they were up to. The big difference right off the bat from Ko Bar (besides the food) is that it feels a lot more fun and less precious than its predecessor. It also really feels like it wants to be a bar, where Ko Bar was a place to go for a nice dinner. That being said, the food here was fantastic. My friend and I each started with a daiquiri from the menu. I ordered the namesake and he got the coconut/pineapple. Both were delicious, but the coco pineapple was the one I went back for when ordering a second round. The menu is super straightforward and is broken down into a few small sections, basically starters, fried patties, baked patties, and sweets. The food really blew me away as almost every dish I had was the best version of that dish I had personally ever eaten. I am admittedly no Caribbean food expert, but it is one of the cuisines I really do crave, and having a place like this just across town has me pumped. The first dish we ordered that came highly recommended was the scallops, tiny and sweet over cold citrus with chilis and pikliz, a Haitian pickled relish that popped with flavor. It really got us off to a great start. The following dish was something called “Dad’s Sardines” which was sardines laid out in a row with slices of avocado, pickled onions ,and pepper sauce, served with a side of saltines. They were a perfect bite and full of nostalgia for me from when an old girlfriend and I would regularly eat sardine and avocado toasts for dinner during some leaner years. My love for silver fish is no secret, and I loved every bit of this dish, simple as it was. The black pudding and pigs head dish was another winner for me, tasting reminiscent almost of a Thai Laab with crunchy cucumbers and full of depth with allspice coming through in the end. The dish was full of texture and a lot of fun. After that, we were on to the patties, of which we tried five, and I would eat each one again. The patties are split into two sections, both baked and fried. The favorites ended up being the fried short rib, bone marrow and conch, baked crab and squash, and the fried lobster and red herring that we happily ate wrapped in an order of coco bread. Only one dessert was on offer and it is definitely worth getting. Caramelized Ducana, which is sweet potato mashed and cooked in a banana leaf, served with nutmeg ice cream. Bonus secret tip: if you ask nicely the staff may let you order some of that ice cream stuffed in some coco bread for one of the best ice cream sandwiches you’ve ever had. I can’t wait to check out the full restaurant and will definitely be back to the bar to check out more of the drink menu and to snack on everything!
Ci Siamo
📍Hudson Yards
🍽️ Italian
I was invited to an opening party for a new restaurant around the Hudson Yards area and found myself looking for a real meal after all the passed apps and drinks. From the original hype of the launch through the pandemic, Hudson Yards has felt like both the place to be and a no man's land (somehow simultaneously!) with some big names coming and going and a new neighborhood that somehow also feels like an all inclusive resort. It’s a strange part of town and I am not sure it has found its way as of yet. That being said, Ci Siamo is one of the better restaurants to open in the last few years. While the decor and vibe still feels a little forced, the food and service is consistently excellent. I don’t get up here as much as I’d like but any time I am in the neighborhood I do my best to try to sneak into the bar. My one qualm with the menu would be that it is a very difficult place to dine solo, but that’s a very small complaint and I am never scared to over order. Also a fun pro tip I learned on this visit is that the kitchen will gladly serve half portions of pasta when possible which definitely helps you get the full experience as a single diner. This visit I started with the wonderful martini from the menu that blends multiple gins and vermouths, comes with a sidecar offering both olives and a twist at the ready. It hit the spot! For food, I ordered mostly old favorites, starting with the gnocco fritto served with melty goat gouda and paired it with a plate of mortadella. It is a truly perfect combo and should be eaten together. If I hadn’t been alone, the caramelized onion torta is a must order and probably my favorite thing on the menu. After starters, I had a half portion of a crave-worthy rigatoni with black pepper and pancetta that was both perfectly cooked and seasoned with a saltiness right on the edge. I have found all of the pastas I’ve tried on the menu to be really solid here, but this is the one I continue to come back to. For a main, I tried the braised lamb that was slow cooked until tender and then crisped up on the pickup and topped with pistachio pesto and potatoes. This dish, like much of the food here, is seemingly simple but bursting with flavor and executed so well. With my check, I was also gifted a few rainbow cookies (my favorite) that are up there with the best in the city. If you ever find yourself in the area, this is definitely one of my favorites and one of the few in the neighborhood worth going out of your way for.
Fiore’s
📍Hoboken
🍽️ Deli
I love sandwiches, full stop. Is there anything better? What I do find strange is that in a town that is kind of known for them I find it hard to find great sandwiches in NYC. This may be a hot take, and yes, there are definitely great ones to be found, but overall I think the sandwich culture is even better just over the border in both Jersey and Philly. That brings me to my next stop which happens to be one of my favorite experiences around and that is Fiore’s, in Hoboken. Fiore’s is a special spot and you can feel it from the moment you walk in. Cash only and as authentic as it gets. You walk to the counter and place your order with someone who has definitely been working there forever. There is no real menu per se, but you know what you’re getting. Every day has its own special, the most famous being the roast beef and mozz .You can also order anything else in the case that you see. The thing you can’t miss though is the “fresh mozz,” as the crew calls it, which may be the best I’ve ever had. While you’re ordering, they give you a little taste and you realize you are in for a treat. I have tried all of the specials and honestly they are all great, the standouts to me though are the roast beef (Thurs/Sat only) and the sausage and gravy (Wed only). If you have never been, the experience can be a little intimidating as the line moves quickly, filled with locals in a residential neighborhood in Hoboken. My go-to order is: roast beef special, light on the jus with add hot peppers and mayo as well as an Italian with roasted peppers and add sharp provolone along with the mozz, oil, vinegar, and, controversially, mayo. There is nowhere to eat in the shop so you either have to control yourself and wait until you get these perfect sandwiches home or if weather permits eat it on the hood of your car for the full Jersey experience. Last tip is that these sandwiches are HUGE, meaning ordering a half is the perfect size for one and is totally cool. I can’t control myself once I get out there and usually get two whole sandwiches and either give some to a friend or save some for the following day. Enjoy!
Quick hits …
Big Pearl Caviar Pop-Up @ Hamburger America
📍Soho
🍽️ Hamburgers
While many of you were getting ready (peer pressured) for the usual overpriced, amateur night, Valentines Day tasting menu at (insert restaurant), I was trekking down Houston St. because I remembered that Big Pearl Caviar was doing a special deal at Hamburger America starting at 2 p.m. The deal was, you get an ounce of caviar added to an egg salad sandwich at no additional cost ($7 all in), which is a $70 value! I waited about 15 minutes for a seat at the counter an hour after they got started and thoroughly enjoyed the sandwich which was an absolute steal. Apparently, there was a line right as they got going, but I basically walked right in and they still had some available. I also used the opportunity to try the new monthly special from DC legend Ben’s Chili Bowl which was also a solid choice. Unlike the smashburgers HA is known for, this is a ¼ lb. patty topped with the famous chili, cheese, mayo and shredduce. It was the perfect Friday reward for making it through the week.